...I was licking salt from the Agean Sea and sipping tea with teachers who spoke no English and transcribing their 20,000 words a day as they trained in the human right to freedom of conscience. We were together for a week. At the end of it, some wouldn’t be returning home. Some didn’t know if they still had a home. Some had once placed themselves between their children and armed militants, then fled for their lives. These men and women — teachers, parents — had scrawled